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Chain rings-how long do they last? Quote Reply. Post 1 of 21 views. Have a Dura Ace crankset on my tri bike. Early edition Di2. I've changed the cassette and chain regularly over the 3 years that I've had the bike but never put on new chain rings.
Bike has about 14, miles on it. I do most of my training indoors so not alot of shifting and live in a very flat area. How often should I be putting on new chain rings? Re: Chain rings-how long do they last? Post 2 of 21 views. I just sold a Madone I bought new in that had over on it. I changed chains about every and kept them clean and lubed.
I recommended to the seller that he change it soon but it was still just as smooth probably smoother than new. Post 3 of 21 views. If you take good care of the drivetrain clean, well lubed, chain wear not excessive the chainrings should last a long time.
Good thing, with the cost of the Dura Ace chainrings these days it's almost cheaper to buy a whole new crankset than just the rings. Post 4 of 21 views. I'm not sure if there's any hard data on drivetrain efficiency on worn vs. I assume it drops, but I don't know how many watts. Post 5 of 21 views. I had a tech at a service shop once tell me that my KMC Ti-Ni chain will destroy my chainrings with excessive wear.
Post 6 of 21 views. Mine lasts exactly the same length of time as my chain and my cassette! Johnhe wrote:. Posted: Jul 14, at My chainring s will last as long as my chain and cassette if I never change my chain. I never have once experienced grinding or noises from my chainring with the chain that it started with. It's when a new chain goes on there, immediately the grinding and shitty sounding chainring starts.
I can tell right away in a driveway test. I fully degreased and cleaned my chainring with a wire brush this last time, thinking that maybe some dirt or grit might be the problem. But it was the same outcome.
I put a new chainring on and voila, zero sound and zero grinding immediately. What I think I'll do is rotate chains with the chainring that is now useless.
If you compare the middle ring with the two outer ones, it looks fairly worn shark fin pattern. Is it bad enough to need replacing? If I just change the chain and rear cassette will I be entering a world of pain? I have a new cassette and chain standing by but would need to order a new middle ring since it's a bit exotic one LBS didn't know Shimano still made Ultegra triples. I know that there's a lot of km's on these rings mostly on the middle one and I'm also familiar with the "if it still skips, try changing it" philosophy, but I was hoping for a more objective answer.
Something about the wear pattern or what to look for if I put a new chain on? Judging by Sheldon's Guide , it definitely looks like you are in need of a new chainring. Your middle and larger sprockets in particular look like they have taken on a significant ramp-like profile, which will surely lead to lackluster shifting.
You should get a new chain every time you change your cassette, btw. If you are doing the work yourself, I don't see any reason to change the chain ring immediately. Try the new cassette and chain and see how it works. If it isn't broke, don't fix it. If it doesn't ride well after changing the first set of parts then yes, change it.
On the other hand, if you are taking it to a shop and paying for the work, it's probably worth having them put on a new chain ring while they've got it in the stand. A good shop will test ride it and be able to tell you if it is needed before you buy. For cassettes I would not consider changing unless it skips when you have put on a new chain. The best tactic is to change your chain often enough so that you minimise the wear in your cassette and chainrings. I use to successfully reshape chainrings like these using a round file diameter more or less similar to the chain roller.
This is a tried and tested method, and is very easy much more than doing the same with the cogs, which I also do when needed. The only limitation is with skill and time, since it is a bit monotonous and require a bit of labor. You just have to remove material in a way that it gets the same shape as the others, which means the teeth would be thinner looking from the side.
Of course, it is necessary to remove the chainring from the crankset.
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